THE NOORI MYSTERY!

This was my fifth visit to the same place to resolve my mystery about the Noori building, popularly known as Noori Manzil inside the famous Lohari Gate, Walled City of Lahore, near Mohalla Peer Shirazi. Every time I had visited the place I was informed by the locals that some parts of it were haunted. It was not actually the fear that stopped me going inside there, but seeing a female alone, I was not allowed to enter the building. It took me all these visits to convince the family living in one part of the building and finally the fifth time I could photograph it, as I had a male friend along, whom the family thought would guard me! Well, the family was kind enough to call a local person to guide us into the haveli.

There started my excursion!  I entered through a narrow dark doorway which led me into a reasonably larger courtyard, as usually we do not find open spaces and courtyards inside the walled city; it’s a rare feature now. No wonder the building façade was mesmerizing and captured my senses for few seconds. Till then I could not smell any hex or vex there. It was a wrecked beauty, but still staggering. I believe (from what I observed) it was a living area between the two sections of the building. It had turned into a courtyard as the roof had collapsed over the passage of time and I am sure it was neglected. The local person Akhtar guiding us seemed nervous right from the first step. Along the sides of this courtyard were the main buildings structures decorated with carved and brick balconies reflecting Sikh Architecture. The lined designs are a prominent feature of Sikh Architecture which was visible all over the building. Probably, it was a Sikh era construction.

I entered in one of the portions of the building on the right and I was lost into the majesty of the ruins. It was undoubtedly a masterpiece. The interior was spellbinding and mysterious. Now, for a moment I was scared and the local along us must be coveting to hammer us out, but again our curiosity won. The main area inside this double storey portion of the Haveli had a small square courtyard with rooms around it. It was an abandoned Haveli and some shoe makers had occupied two rooms on the ground floor. Other rooms were locked since ages as the manes were rusted.  The building was awfully dilapidated with pigeons all around and debris on the floor. Some parts were covered with bird droppings which gave a snowy look! I wondered why nobody ever thought to maintain it. It is a piece not less than any other Haveli inside the walled city; it is just ignored and blamed as being haunted. I didn’t feel anything in there.

The Noori Manzil, was a doll house but in fiasco. I thought to go on the upper floor but the local man tried to stop me. Finally after a long argument I managed to reach the first floor which was actually derelict and with my each step it quivered. Well, there I was a little frightened and most of the pictures I took were blurring.  The huge cracks narrated how ruthlessly the building was kept and treated. Each brick falling apart cried. The railing running around the upper floor was dusty rather grubby. The walls of the Haveli were carved, and brick work in paisley design was used as a border everywhere.

The structure of the building seemed strange to me, but I could relate it with the Haveli of Nau Nehal Singh (Victoria School). I asked Akhtar, if I could get any history of the place or if the family living in it could tell me something. He took me to the family again. There I met more women and lots of children playing in a dark room maybe that was the load shedding time. The ladies, a little hesitant in talking to me, later narrated the whole story. The head of the family was working abroad and according to them they did not have sufficient income to maintain the building, so they left it falling apart.

According to the residents, the haveli was a house of dancing girls during the Sikh period. It was built by a prostitute /dancer “Poori Bai” and the Haveli was known as Poori Haveli at that time. As the time passed, the haveli, like many other streets and gates of the walled city, was renamed to Noori Haveli or Noori Manzil. The Haveli was a two storeyed building with thirty two rooms. I couldn’t get a chance to see all the rooms as one portion was completely locked and other rooms were closed as well. There was a stable for horses which was now converted into shops in which the shoe makers were sitting. According to the residents the occupied area of the Haveli was 27 Marlas, which is considered huge inside the walled city at present. It was allotted to the family after the partition in 1947 when the Sikhs moved out.

 According to history books, the red light area was located inside the Lohari Gate before the Sikh rule and most of the affluent prostitutes/ dancers had built beautiful Havelis in Lohari. The famous Chowk inside the Lohari Gate, Chowk Matti was also named after a prominent prostitute “Matti Bai”. With the passage of time, the Red Light area was shifted to Chowk Jhanda, then Tibbi Gali and eventually spread over the Heera Mandi.

The Haveli is no doubt a masterpiece and a hidden jewel inside Lohari Gate Lahore. The residents are not financially sound to restore or maintain it. I hope it is not lost into commercialization till my next visit.

(The writer is a media professional and can be reached at taniaq29@gmail.com)

THE WHOLESALE WORLD IN A HERITAGE CITY (PART -2)

The colors added by the bazaars to the life of the walled city are matchless. Though some people take these commercialization negatively, but in my opinion, if things are properly administered the commercialization will not be a threat to the walled city’s original fabric. Suppose, if zones of special value are declared and the residents and the traders are informed about them why would commercialization harm? It’s just that we don’t want to work a little harder.

Anyhow coming back to our theme, let me take you to the shoe market, rather Asia’s biggest shoe market inside the Masti Gate near Mariam Zamani Mosque, the Moti bazaar. It is famous for whole sale trading and shoes are supplied to the entire country and exported. The name of this bazaar is said to be famous since Mughal era. In those days this area was called bazaar e husan (red light area) with the passage of time those people shifted to Shahi Mohalla in Taxali and this bazaar transformed into a shoe market. 

Sarafa Bazar is the gold old market also known as Sooha bazaar. It is the largest market of Pakistan. With almost 500 shops Sarafa bazaar was established in 1960’s. Earlier this area was occupied by cobblers and tailors but with the establishment of few gold shops a huge bazaar sprung up. This bazaar is near the Rang Mehal Chowk and can be easily accessed from the Waan market or the Kasera bazaar through Delhi Gate and Shah Almi Gate. The amazing jewelry designs found there are supplied to the branded gold sellers. Wacho wali bazaar is situated near Sarafa Bazaar. This bazaar exists since 1952. It’s a slaughter house and you will find a lot of meat around, an interesting sight! Fresh meat can be bought from there anytime. This market is shrinking now as many shopkeepers are moving out of the walled city and developing business in the greater Lahore. Chatta bazar is the largest hub of silver metal. This market exists along with the Sarafa bazar in Rang Mehal Chowk. 

Kinaari bazaar is also situated near Rang Mehal Chowk .This Bazaar exists for more than 100 years. Before partition most of the shops belonged to Hindu’s and Sikh’s. Presently there are 150 shops in this market. Kinaari bazaar is famous for all kinds of embroidered formal dresses. Gumti Bazaar is located near Kinaari Bazaar. This market is just 25 to 30 years old.  It also deals in the embroided clothes but those are cheaper than the ones in Kinaari Bazaar.  A renowned Indian actor Om Parkash was the resident of this bazaar before partition. Shisha Moti Bazaar also exists near Gumti bazaar. In the forty shops of this bazaar you will find all the accessories for shoe making like rexine, leather etc.

Now comes the soul of the walled city, the Shah Alam Market located inside the Shah Alami Gate, which was one of the thirteen gates of the walled city, built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar. This is a flourishing centre of commerce for over a century and it is still escalating. Accessories like cosmetics, electronics, handicrafts, antiques, stationery, crockery, genuine items and imitation, brand new, reconditioned or spare parts – anything one can think of is available there. There are nearly ten thousand shops in this market. You wish for anything and you will find it there and that too cheaper than the greater Lahore.

There is a never ending range of bazaars in the walled city, now let me take you to the optical market known as the Ainak Market outside Shah Alam gate. This market exists there since 1970. There are 120 shops in this market. The surrounding area has optical factories and warehouses.

Here again comes something for my female readers, a huge variety of bangles! The bangle market was established in 1950s. One is awe stunned at the variety and vibrancy of the bazaar. Thousand of glittering colors welcome you into a dazzling world. Some people say that there existed some Hindu Temples in that area as well which were demolished and later this market was established with almost hundred shops.  

This is one of the most interesting bazaars inside the walled city, located in the notorious Taxali gate, the Sheikhupurian bazaar. It’s a Mughal period Bazaar and was named after Shehzada Saleem whose nick name was Sheikhu. This market is renowned for leather Khussa’s and kola puri chappals. These shoes are being exported to other countries also. With hundred twenty five shops it is the biggest Khussa Market.     

                            

                                                          

The tunes and melodies of traditional music will enfold you as you move a little ahead from the Sheikhupurian bazaar. Lahnga Mandi is the biggest and busiest market of musical instruments. The market is situated along the Shahi Mohalla inside Taxali Gate.  You will find sitar, dholak, tabla, duf, harmonium, guitars, pianos, flutes, violins and all that makes a melody, in this bazaar.

All the gem stones lovers go to Lohari gate if you need genuine stones at a cheaper cost. This market exists between Shah Alam gate and Lohari gate.  You will find a huge street of gem stones vendors and trust me they are all selling the real stones. People from far flung areas go there to purchase stones. Ruby, sapphire, moon stones, graphite, opal and all gems you can think of are there. Another wonder, the Pappar Mandi Bazaar also exists in between Shah Alam gate and Lohari Gate. It’s a market of herbs, perfumes and murabbajaat. Nearly three hundred shops are located in this market.

A market that is much disliked by the public is the Rim Market which trades the alloy rims for vehicles. It is located outside the Masti gate and faces the Akbari Gate of Lahore Fort. The negative point about this market is that it gives an ugly look, creates traffic jams and is an encroachment upon the Mariam Zamani Mosque. The heritage lovers including myself are of the view that this market should be relocated; let’s see what fate it meets!

The walled city of Lahore is completely incomplete without the blazing and dazzling bazaars. The rich colors, the aromatic streets and the vivacious life in the streets are the true Lahore. I suggest these are a must visit!

(The writer is a media professional and can be reached at taniaq29@gmail.com)

THE WHOLESALE WORLD IN A HERITAGE CITY (PART -1)

Walled city of Lahore is not just about the buildings, architecture, monuments and the traditional life styles. It is also the biggest wholesale and retail market place in Asia. In the total area of 2.6 sq km, imagine how much diversity you have to see. The thirteen gates hold within themselves the world class monuments and Asia’s biggest wholesale markets. Each gate has a market of its own kind and if you wish to roam around all the markets you cannot make it in a day. Another interesting feature of the markets of old Lahore is the network with which they are linked together. If you reach Kashmiri Bazaar it will take you to Kasera Bazaar from where you can go to Sarafa Bazar and then the Rang Mehal and finally the Shah Almi. It is an interesting maze and surely one can be easily lost if visiting these markets for the first time.

Let me start our markets journey by taking you to the aromatic world of the Akbari Mandi located outside Delhi Gate which goes up to the Akbari Gate. It is the hub of grains, spices, herbs and chemicals and undoubtedly one of the largest spice & grain markets in Asia. This market was named after the third Mughal Emperor Akbar, who ruled the sub continent.  This market was developed during Akbar’s period and so holds historical importance. This Mandi surprisingly has more than one thousand shops. You will find more than twenty one varieties of rice in this market. Akbari Mandi was the market that paved way for the East India Company into the sub continent. This is another interesting feature of this market if we talk about it in historic terms. 

Now let’s talk about fish, as it is the season is on. In Mori Gate and Delhi Gate are the two wholesale fish markets. The market of Mori gate was established in 1969 and approximately there are twenty five shops. The other one inside Delhi Gate is a comparatively new development with more than thirty eight shops. You will find all sorts of fish from these markets which is amazing. Despite the smell of the fish many people from the greater Lahore prefer buying fish from there because of its quality, cheap cost, variety and taste. Supply of fish is made to the renowned restaurants of Lahore and also to other cities from these two markets. You can see the trading of fish early morning if you happen to visit the walled city. You will surely have to hold on your breath while passing through these markets because of the stench in the air.

Markets inside the walled city are diversified and you will feel the same while reading my lines. This is the exquisiteness of the walled city of Lahore but unfortunately most of us are unaware of these things. Well, in my opinion, our concerned government agencies are also at fault in the under marketing of these places. If these markets are properly projected, they can surely be in superior setting and the area can be economically uplifted. I wonder if anyone has thought of holding a shopping festival inside the walled city, trust me it will be alluring and enthralling!

Now let us come to some women’s interests, the clothes! Attention ladies, this market is waiting for you to visit it. This is the largest cloth hub where cloth is sold in retail and wholesale. Azam Cloth Market exists inside Delhi Gate and is considered among the largest cloth whole sale markets of Asia. From here cloth is supplied to Afghanistan, Iran, India and China. Nearly 12000 shops are there. Azam Khan a Lieutenant General had established this market in late 1950’s. Near the Azam Cloth Market is the Pakistan cloth market, running parallel to it but it deals in mostly in retail.  This market was established after the Azam Cloth market and nearly 1300 shops are there. The cloth from these two markets is supplied to all elite markets of Pakistan. Trust me, you will find any type of cloth you wish for, now I am sure all ladies will push their husbands to take them there.

One thing, going there is not an easy task. You will have to park your cars outside the Delhi Gate, where there is a designated parking and walk to all these markets. As you reach the Rang Mehal Chowk you will be welcomed by the Golden Mosque standing majestically there, and a small turn to the left will take you to the Waan Market. This market exists for more than hundred years as before partition it was called WAAN WATTAN while now it’s named as Waan market. This market deals in Baan, Seba, plastic baan, jute and all kind of stuff used in making traditional sofa sets, beds, chairs, and other kinds of furniture. You will see people knitting up furniture with the Waan there which is an interesting sight. To see Artisan at work, Waan market is the best example. A few yards from the Waan Market is again something for the interest of ladies, which is crockery and house hold bazaar. Kasera bazaar is the manor of utensils. You will find stainless steel, brass, copper and other house hold items like crockery, pots, dishes, vases, decoration pieces etc. there. Kasera Bazaar was established nearly 125 years ago. Almost more than 100 shops are there. Antique items of this market are also exported to other countries. The shop of Omar Butt is famous for its antiques which you will not find anywhere else in Pakistan. The amazing part is that the way these shopkeepers sell their product itself is unique. Talking to some old shopkeepers they said that the bazaar was once full of brass and copper utensils. With the passage of time and demand of people the stainless steel took over the cultural crockery as well. This was something sad I heard. Now only two or three shops deal in brass and copper rest all have the stainless steel.

This is not an end to the markets in the walled city. I will be coming with more in my next feature and more exciting stuff for men and women.

(The writer is a media professional and can be reached at taniaq29@gmail.com)

GURUDAWARAS! WHY NOT RELIGIOUS TOURISM?

 

Walking around the walled city one comes across many mosques and shrines, but let me tell you, there are many Sikh Religious sites inside the walled city of Lahore. Walled city is a place that depicts religious accord and it must be shared with the world too. Walled city is not merely a hub of architecture, markets or monuments; the unity, harmony and brotherhood we find there among the people, and that too in terms of religions, is matchless. To me the walled city of Lahore is an example of tolerance and interfaith harmony. One example is the Samadhi of Maharaja Ranjeet Singh next to the Badshahi Mosque. Both the religious places share the same wall, and also respect each other’s prayers timings. This you may not see anywhere in the world.

Coming to the Gurudawaras inside the walled city of Lahore, let me take you to the Gurudawara located inside the Chohatta Mufti Baqar near Wazir Khan Mosque inside Delhi Gate. This Gurudawara is associated with the pioneer of Sikh religion, Guru Nanak Dev. It is also valued as the ‘bethak’ sitting area of the Guru. As per the historic references it is said that Guru Nanak came to this place in 1510. It was the house of his disciple and because of Guru’s presence there it was given the status of a Gurudawara.   The ownership of the place remained with the Sikhs and after partition it was handed over to the Auqaf department. It is not opened for public but if any Sikh Yatree (pilgrim) comes the place is opened for him.

Another Gurudawara is inside Lal Khoo Mochi Gate. The same gate is known for the Moharram processions and Havelis converted into Imam Bargah. This Gurudawara is associated with the fifth Sikh Guru Arjun Dev. It is said that during the reign of Emperor Jahangir, due to some clashes the Guru was locked in that house as a punishment. According to historic references the Guru passed away in the same house. During the Sikh reign the Maharaja Ranjeet Singh and other Sikhs bought the nearby houses and expanded the room into a Gurudawara. The possession of this place remained with the Sikhs but after partition it was shifted to the Auqaf Department. The place is not preserved and neither opened for the tourists.

Coming to Chunna Mandi we come across a very well maintained Gurudawara the Janam Asthan (birth place) of fourth Sikh Guru, Raam Daas. It is said that the Guru spent early years of his life in that place. After the birth of Maharaja Kharak Singh, son of Ranjeet Singh, the place was converted into a bigger Gurudawara as a token of gratitude to the Guru for the birth of a son. The architecture of this Gurudawara is similar to that in Amritsar. There is a small gate of the Gurudawara and some parts of the outer wall are rented out to shops.

Gurudawara of Baoli Bagh is another place of Sikh Heritage. The Gurudawara cannot be seen anywhere now but it is said that this barren ground was once a splendid place. Baolis were the stepped wells constructed as water reservoirs for the people. The Baoli was constructed during Jahangir's reign by the fifth Sikh Guru Arjun Singh in A.D. 1599. With the passage of time in 1685, the Baoli got damaged and neglected but during the reign of Ranjit Singh in 1891 the Baoli was restored.

Inside Bhatti Gate as well, where we find the Oonchi Mosque is another Gurudawara known as Gurudawara Chomallah Sahib. This Gurudawara is associated with the sixth Sikh Guru Hargobind. This place was the residence of Guru’s devotee and later on out of respect the place was converted into a Gurudawara.  The possession of the Gurudawara was with the Sikhs till partition and later it was handed over to the Auqaf department. At present the building of Gurudawara does not exist there whereas a few houses have been built there and nobody knows what happened to the Gurudawara. A board stating the name of the Gurudawara is still intact and is the only to the Gurudawara. 

Now let us move to the Samadhi of Maharaja Ranjeet Singh also known as Gurudawara Dera Sahib. It is located near the Lahore Fort and Badshahi Mosque in Lahore, Pakistan and banks upon the only existing Mughal era gate the Roshnai Gate. Its construction was started by Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s son, Kharak Singh and was completed by his youngest son, Duleep Singh in 1848. In the same complex are the Samadhi of Kharak Singh and grandson of Ranjeet Singh Kunwar Nau Nehal Singh. The possession of this place is with the Evacuee Trust Board and it is not a tourist site. It is only opened for the innumerable Sikh Yatrees coming there every year.

I think that religious tourism is not only a visitation to a particular holy destination, but may also be travel for a humanitarian cause, for reasons of friendship or even as a form of leisure.  During economically difficult times faith-based travel can provide a steady flow of income to a local tourism economy and the government. In Lahore, we can generate millions when we have the key tourism destinations. These religious heritage sites not only drive international tourism and economic growth, but also provide important meeting grounds for visitors and host communities, making vital contributions to tolerance, respect and mutual understanding between different cultures. This type of tourism also helps in the image building of a country and its people. Our government should think and plan to promote religious tourism. Instead of keeping these heritage sites hidden, the more these are publicized the more tourism will be generated and surely a positive impact on the economy.

(the writer is a media professional and can be reached at taniaq29@gmail.com) 

HAMMAM WALI MASJID – UNNOTICED!

After about two hundred years it was during the reign of Mughal Emperor Akbar the great that Lahore saw a mighty period of serenity and tranquility. Many religious and political movements took place before the period of Akbar. After his taking over Lahore the building of mosques and other monuments nurtured like never before. Most of the towns got mosques and other monuments constructed during this period. The records show that Lahore remained hub of major activity under the rule of Mughal Emperor Akbar and his descendants. The thirty feet high city wall and the thirteen gates of Lahore are all credited to the same period and emperor. Akbar is the Mughal Emperor who rebuilt the Lahore Fort with burnt bricks and added special features to it, and the State Balcony in Deewan-e-Aam is one of the remains. The Mughal Emperor himself stayed at Lahore from 1593 to 1596. It was also during this period that Lahore was made the seat of the governance. This is the time when Lahore actually started gaining its splendor to which the other Mughal Emperors added later on. Though the Mughal Emperor had a secular mindset in terms of religion, still many Mosques along with Hindu Temples were built during his reign.

Through my continuous excursions to the walled city I came across Hammam Wali Masjid. Entering the Lohari Gate and going towards Sootar Mandi, you will find an old mosque adjacent to the area of the Haveli Nawab Sheikh Imam Ud din. This Mosque is locally known as Masjid Hammam Wali which means the old Mosque of the Hammam, because of a Hammam (royal bath) nearby. The Hammam is now not seen anywhere anymore, but is the Mosque is named so; there must have been a community / royal bath around. On asking the locals about it very few knew the details of the Mosque, but luckily the Imam of the Mosque was a good resource. He said that the Mosque was built during the Mughal Emperor Akbar’s reign. Now the Mosque has no reflection of that era, it has lost the original fabric and glory. It is a three doorway structure which looks small if compared to other mosques of Mughal period like Wazir Khan, Mariam Zamani or Badshahi Mosque, but it is quite similar to Golden Mosque and Neevin Masjid in size and style of construction. It is evident that not only it has been repaired a number of times but its floors were also re-laid, as everything is built with new material now. All the three domes stand on low neck, which meet the dome in the shape of arch. Despite all the changes over different period of time the Mosque still is an example of burnt-brick building and belongs to an old era.

Kanhaiya Lal also writes in his book ‘History of Lahore’, that this Mosque is attributed to the period of Mughal Emperor Akbar.  This is another proof of ascribing this Mosque to that period.  

In some portions of the Mosque ages old calligraphy, as seen in the Golden Mosque or the Wazir Khan, is slightly visible under the thick layers of white wash. This is a menace that we do to our buildings because of ignorance. Beautiful fresco remains and other designs are painted with white wash.  Other than this, the building of the Mosque is not very well kept and the locals of the area fund for its maintenance. It is not listed as a protected monument by the Archeology Department as well, maybe because the Mosque has lost all its value, but the history is still there. It is no doubt an old mosque! I guess the Auqaf Department must take notice of this Mosque and maintain it. Moreover, for tourist attraction, as the history is much attractive, there should be some plaques placed outside the Mosque and it should be included in the guided tours. Lohari Gate is already famous for enticing food, havelis and other mosques and Chowks. This must also be a tourist spot if there is a guided tour to Lohari Gate.

I am afraid that if we go on with this attitude towards the remains of heritage, we will soon be losing much of it. What will we have for our future generations to see? All over the world even a piece of rock or a tree is also preserved for the generations, but we are ignoring huge buildings and monuments, that’s a point to think over again and again and take some serious steps.

(The writer is a media professional and can be reached at taniaq29@gmail.com)

VIVACITY INSIDE MASTI GATE

The historic gates of Lahore are the precious inheritance of Lahoris. Though most of the gates have lost their existence with the passage of time and the transitions the city went through but still they are alive to witness the glory and magnificence of the bygone empires. The structure might not be existing now, but the grandeur of the monuments and culture still lives inside the deceased structures of the gates.

Now come to the Masti Gate, one of the thirteen gates of the walled city and this gate too has various traditions about the origin of its name. One says that it is named after a royal guard Masti Baloch who performed his duties with great dedication and commitment. He guarded the gate till his last breath and the gate got connected with his name. According to another, which is more believable, its original name was Masiti Gate (Masit is for a Mosque in Punjabi) which was changed to Masti Gate. The claim is affirmed as a few yards from the gate stands the majestic “Begum Shahi Mosque” which is the oldest Mosque of the Mughal era. The Mosque was built in1611-1614 by the Emperor Jahangir for his mother Mariam Zamani who was the Hindu wife of Mughal Emperor Akbar (Rajkumari Heer Kunwar of Amber, also known as 'Maharani Jodha Bai' in popular culture).  

The Masti Gate was destroyed during British period due to its deteriorated conditions and a comparatively small doorway was built. But now there exists neither the gate nor the doorway. A steep path known as Masti Ghatti (slope) goes down to link it with the main road.

Outside the gate we see the vehicles tyre and alloy rims market. The gate is no more there but according to some historians and architects the foundations are traceable inside this market. This market to some extent is also considered an encroachment and has affected the location of the Mariam Zamani Mosque.  Just opposite the Masti Gate and the thick rim market is the grand entrance to the Lahore Fort “Akbari Gate”. This gate was once the main entrance to the Lahore Fort and was built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar.

As we move a little further inside the gate there is the biggest shoe market named Moti Bazaar. This bazaar is a whole sale and a retail market of all types of shoes. It can be claimed as the biggest shoe market in Pakistan.

An interesting thing near the Moti Bazaar is the residential area of the blinds. This is known as the “Aniya di Katri” (Punjabi language). There are more than ten blind families living inside this Katri till now and it is an old settlement. A very narrow path leads you to this katri. Probably you will have to ask someone there if you wish to visit it. Don’t think that the residents of this katri are less hospitable; despite their disability they will host you at their best.

Another remarkable feature inside this gate is the Chunna Mandi Haveli.  Also known as the Havelis of Jamaadar Khushaal Singh and Dhiyan Singh, these Havelis are a significant group of historic buildings in the Walled City. It currently houses the Government Fatima Jinnah College for Women. The building, with its spacious courtyard and Sikh imagery is one of the largest Havelis inside the Walled City of Lahore. From its sprawling courtyards to its royal baths and from its arched hallways to its zenana gardens, the building is breathtakingly beautiful. But, perhaps what is far more important is that the haveli is as alive today as it was in its days of glory. Instead of being kept under lock and key it is being utilized as a college and every corner has been put to constructive use.

Near Chunna Mandi is the Janam Asthan (birth place) of Guru Arjun Raam Das.  He was the fourth of the Ten Gurus of Sikhism and was given the title of Sikh Guru on 30 August 1574. He was Guru for seven years. Ram Das was born in Chunna Mandi, Walled City Lahore on 24 September 1534.

Inside the gate is also the temple converted into a residential area now. It was originally the Mai ka Mandir. A main trail from the Begum Shahi Masjid leads to Chowk Surjan Singh from where you can go towards Rang Mehal Chowk and further to Sonehri Masjid and Wazir Khan Masjid. This is an interesting walk.

Just like Delhi, Lohari, Taxali and Bhatti, the gate is also renowned for its best quality heavy food. At every nook and corner we will find a tea stall and local foods which are no doubt appetizing.  Local drinks like lassi, green tea, kashmiri tea, pathoora, special types of naan and roti are famous food items. There are also functional Akharas (wrestling arena) inside this gate. This is a local wrestling arena which is now hardly seen inside the Walled City. Once these were functional in every gate but now it’s considered a vanishing sport.

Life inside the Walled City and this gate is extraordinarily appealing. If one observes bit deeply, it’s entirely contradictory to that of the modern Lahore. The community is convivial, welcoming, very cooperating and hospitable, if you are passing by a residential area you will surely be offered by a cup of tea or Lassi (a local drink). Even though, atrocious circle of poverty has surrounded them callously but still they are rich at hearts and would offer you whatever they can, that’s the true Lahori culture. The entire Mohalla, Katri or a Koocha is like a family, and everyone is close to each other.  The residents do face issues because of the markets and commercial areas, but they have developed love for their land and place. This is a must visit trail and especially if you visit the awe stunning monuments inside this gate it will be a memorable trip.

(The writer is a media professional and can be reached at taniaq29@gmail.com)

Door to the Times of yore! Lohari Gate

I entered the huge arched door with fruit vendors sitting around, trust me the aroma was awesome.  Even the fruits of the Walled City are different from the ones sold in the greater Lahore. They have a tempting fragrance and look much fresh, may be because of the nearby fruits wholesale markets. I saw some rooms and windows hidden behind the vendors and plenty of posters marketing the local herbal medicines. That was the first sight standing inside Lohari Gate.  Yes, there I was at one of the gateways to the Walled City of Lahore.

This gate was named after the city Lahore. However, according to another school of thought, numerous “Lohars” (Blacksmiths) had their shops just outside the gate, for which the gate became popular as Lohari gate. Some historians and writers are of the view that early in the 11th century, the city was badly affected by the wars between Mahmud of Ghazna and Raja Jai Pal. At one time, it was even unpopulated. When Malik Ayaz was appointed viceroy of North India, he made Lahore, the seat of government. It was at that time, when the people started inhabiting this part and since then the gate was recognized as Lahori Gate. There is also a controversy on the name of the gate, few call it “Lahori” and some say its “Lohari”, because of these myths, well I will take it up as Lohari in my writing, as I have heard it the same way. The marble slab placed on the gate is strange too, and bears both the names, as you can see in the picture, showing the details of reconstruction of the gate in Hindi and English languages.

It is considered to be one of the earliest gates of Lahore. Some books state that initially there were only five entrances to the Walled City and Lohari Gate was one. Historians also record that Lohari area was the original fort built during the rule of Mahmood of Ghazna, and the streets do look like a labyrinth similar to different Forts.  Anyhow, who knows the past unless some strayed soul of those times meets us! By the way, this is something interesting about the Walled City, people do come across strange characters who are actually dead hundreds of years ago, I have experienced that myself but it would be lengthy to elaborate my experiences here, so let’s stick to Lohari Gate.

The gate was initially built during the period of Mughal Emperor Akbar (again a controversy as some say it existed in Malik Ayaz’s times as well. This can only be verified by excavating the foundations, which I think cannot be done).  Mughal Emperor Akbar was the one who had built a fortified wall around the city with thirteen gates, and Lohari was one of the gates. During the Sikh riots the gate got smashed and was rebuilt in British period with small bricks on the same old style. The rooms were built in the upper storey for officials; presently rooms are being used as offices of Walled City Lahore Authority. The gate still has wooden arches. The roof top is spacious with a podium in the center. I guess the roof was used for assembly, but I would suggest that this place can be utilized as an open air theatre now.

There is another interesting fact for you, before the Sikh era, the red light area was located inside the Lohari Gate and most of the rich dancers had built beautiful Havelis there. Chowk Matti was also named after a known dancer “Matti Bai”. With the passage of time, the Red Light area was shifted to Chowk Jhanda, then Tibbi Gali and eventually the Heera Mandi was established. At some places we still find beautiful Havelis which were originally the dancing houses owned by different dancers. One famous Haveli which is now under the use of cobblers is the Noori Haveli. It was also a dancing house of “Noori Bai”.

Near the entrance of this gate, is Muslim Masjid named after a Muslim scholar Mollana Muhammad Bakhsh Muslim. The gem stone market near the same cannot be ignored. From this market you will find a variety of stones or gems you wish for. The biggest optical market of Lahore is also located there.

Currently inside the gate there are innumerable typical Lahori food spots. Haji Sahib Nahari walay, Sheikh Chatkhara and Sweets, Mehar Bashir Halwae and Hafiz Channay are some of the most famous food spots of the area. Lohari Gate itself has a food street, while rambling and wandering around the streets you can taste all types of tempting foods and local drinks like lassi.

The amazing part of my tour to Lohari Gate was that I saw groups and groups of people visiting the place to enjoy the food and witness the relics of history. Neevin Masjid, Chowk Bukhari, Chowk Jhanda, metal workers market and the famous Lal Haveli Square are a must see there. A Haveli has been adopted by the National College of Arts as Conservation Bethak. Regular classes of conservation and restoration techniques are held there. Amidst the narrow streets and shops there is Hindu temple as well, though it is not a functional one, but it is well intact. Unfortunately it is not a tourist site as it is locked like most of our mosques, but I wish it is developed as a tourist site. 

Lohari Gate is the best example of the living cultural and heritage. I hope it does not get into the shackles of commercialization like many other parts of the Walled City, although much has been take over by commercialization now. I suggest a plan to be devised for saving the roots of the heritage.

(The writer is a media professional and can be reached at taniaq29@gmail.com)