Monday, 1 February 2016

AKBARI GATE’S TWINING STREETS!

 Akbari Gate of the Walled City was named after the Mughal King Jalal-ud-Din Muhammad Akbar who was the third Mughal Emperor. Akbar came to Lahore in 1600s when he rebuilt the mud Fort of Lahore with burnt bricks, added a thirty feet high wall around the city and made thirteen gates. This gate and the food grain market inside both are named after Akbar as they were established in the same period. Aging to Akbar’s period Akbari Mandi holds historic importance.
Like other gates of the walled city, the original Mughal era gate was demolished and during British Raj, it was reconstructed. Unfortunately, after the war of independence, the gate was completely destroyed and only the tavern (inn) attached to it was left. The walls of the tavern were attached with the gate but there is no sign of the gate now. However, the Akbari Gate police station is housed in the old building of the inn.
Don’t confuse this gate with the Akbari Gate of Lahore Fort; this is one of the thirteen gates of the walled city. This gate is between Delhi gate and Mochi gate lying on the eastern side of the old Lahore city. It is one of the busiest market places in Lahore. The reason is the famous Akbari Mandi outside and inside the gate. A long trail of Akbari Mandi (market) is seen as you enter the gate. Actually Akbari Mandi was the place where the British East India Company rooted from through the trading of spices and grains.  This region of subcontinent in those times was famous for the flavorsome spices and assorted grains. The British had requested the Emperor Akbar to let the British trade spices from there to different parts of the then Britain. Reading the minds of the British, the intelligent courtiers and advisors of Akbar declined the offer and thought to trade it themselves.  Since then the British were trying hard to enter into the great empire built by the Mughals but it took a lot of time for them to pave their way into it.  This is the biggest spice market in Asia till now, and you can understand the historic importance of it. There are shops of all kinds of food grains like wheat, rice, lentils, jams, marmalade, and herbs of all kinds. Different modes of transportation are operational here, the old ones and the new ones. There are horse, mule, and donkey driven carts seen inside the Akbari Gate. This is the only place where you would find every kind of item used in Asian cooking, but easy access is not much possible due to heavy traffic jams and congestions. Outside the gate is also the wool market.
This gate is interestingly linked with several places. As you keep going on the main Akbari Gate trail, you will come across Bazaar Nohriyan as you take a right from there you pass the Kharadi Mohallaha, Haveli Shamsher Singh, Sheeda Halwai Wali Gali and this route will directly take you to Chitta Gate near Pir Said Suf Shrine from there you can also see the majestic Wazir Khan Mosque just a few feet ahead. This is an interesting route with shops and stalls of different eatable items.
Now coming back to Bazaar Nohriyan, let me take you to another fascinating trail. From Bazaar Nohriyan you can also take a left turn from where you will go to Chowk Nawab Sahib. Chowk Nawab Sahib named after the Nawab Ali Raza Qazalbash who was an aristocrat of Punjab. Nawab Ali Raza Qazalbash was a native of Iran and would often reside in Mubarak Haveli. For the same reason this Chowk became popular as Chowk Nawab Sahib. From this Chowk, you can go straight to the Mochi gate streets where you will see the Mubarak Haveli, Nisar Haveli and Mohalla Shian.
Towards the right of the Chowk Nawab Shah, is the Lakar Mandi from where, through Chohatta Mufti Bakar, you can easily reach Wazir Khan Mosque and Mohallah Kakayzayian. From Chohatta Mufti Bakar you can take a route to Sonehri Masjid via Siriyon wala bazaar and Kasera Bazaar. This route is full of historic monuments and colorful bazaars which are no doubt mesmerizing.
This gate and the trail is culturally rich as it links up the monuments, havelis and bazaars located inside the Delhi Gate and the Mochi Gate through very twisting narrow streets. You will have to be with a local of the area if you desire to wander around, as the maze like trails will easily confuse you, but it’s a must see. The walking distance from Akbari Gate to monuments and Havelis is quite less if you are assisted by a local resident or a tourist guide. The locals of the area are welcoming and would love to offer you a cup of tea in this cold season. The shopkeepers are remarkably hospitable and would offer you dry fruits when you enter the shops. Hospitality and generosity is at its peak inside the walled city of Lahore, which is hard to find in any other part of greater Lahore now. The only thing that is obstructing the view is the ugly hanging wires in front of the heritage buildings. I wish these are also taken underground as done inside Delhi Gate. Do visit this site, but remember you need a guide!

(The writer is a media professional and can be reached at taniaq29@gmail.com

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