I entered the huge arched door with fruit vendors sitting
around, trust me the aroma was awesome. Even
the fruits of the Walled City are different from the ones sold in the greater
Lahore. They have a tempting fragrance and look much fresh, may be because of
the nearby fruits wholesale markets. I saw some rooms and windows hidden behind
the vendors and plenty of posters marketing the local herbal medicines. That
was the first sight standing inside Lohari Gate. Yes, there I was at one of the gateways to
the Walled City of Lahore.
This gate was named after the city Lahore. However,
according to another school of thought, numerous “Lohars” (Blacksmiths) had
their shops just outside the gate, for which the gate became popular as Lohari
gate. Some historians and writers are of the view that early in the 11th
century, the city was badly affected by the wars between Mahmud of Ghazna and
Raja Jai Pal. At one time, it was even unpopulated. When Malik Ayaz was
appointed viceroy of North India, he made Lahore, the seat of government. It was
at that time, when the people started inhabiting this part and since then the
gate was recognized as Lahori Gate. There is also a controversy on the name of
the gate, few call it “Lahori” and some say its “Lohari”, because of these
myths, well I will take it up as Lohari in my writing, as I have heard it the
same way. The marble slab placed on the gate is strange too, and bears both the
names, as you can see in the picture, showing the details of reconstruction of
the gate in Hindi and English languages.
It is considered to be one of the earliest gates of Lahore.
Some books state that initially there were only five entrances to the Walled
City and Lohari Gate was one. Historians also record that Lohari area was the
original fort built during the rule of Mahmood of Ghazna, and the streets do
look like a labyrinth similar to different Forts. Anyhow, who knows the past unless some
strayed soul of those times meets us! By the way, this is something interesting
about the Walled City, people do come across strange characters who are
actually dead hundreds of years ago, I have experienced that myself but it would
be lengthy to elaborate my experiences here, so let’s stick to Lohari Gate.
The gate was initially built during the period of Mughal
Emperor Akbar (again a controversy as some say it existed in Malik Ayaz’s times
as well. This can only be verified by excavating the foundations, which I think
cannot be done). Mughal Emperor Akbar
was the one who had built a fortified wall around the city with thirteen gates,
and Lohari was one of the gates. During the Sikh riots the gate got smashed and
was rebuilt in British period with small bricks on the same old style. The
rooms were built in the upper storey for officials; presently rooms are being
used as offices of Walled City Lahore Authority. The gate still has wooden
arches. The roof top is spacious with a podium in the center. I guess the roof
was used for assembly, but I would suggest that this place can be utilized as
an open air theatre now. 
There is another interesting fact for you, before the Sikh
era, the red light area was located inside the Lohari Gate and most of the rich
dancers had built beautiful Havelis there. Chowk Matti was also named after a
known dancer “Matti Bai”. With the passage of time, the Red Light area was
shifted to Chowk Jhanda, then Tibbi Gali and eventually the Heera Mandi was
established. At some places we still find beautiful Havelis which were originally
the dancing houses owned by different dancers. One famous Haveli which is now
under the use of cobblers is the Noori Haveli. It was also a dancing house of “Noori
Bai”.
Near the entrance of this gate, is Muslim Masjid named after
a Muslim scholar Mollana Muhammad Bakhsh Muslim. The gem stone market near the
same cannot be ignored. From this market you will find a variety of stones or
gems you wish for. The biggest optical market of Lahore is also located there.
Currently inside the gate there are innumerable typical
Lahori food spots. Haji Sahib Nahari walay, Sheikh Chatkhara and
Sweets, Mehar Bashir Halwae and Hafiz Channay are some of
the most famous food spots of the area. Lohari Gate itself has a food street,
while rambling and wandering around the streets you can taste all types of
tempting foods and local drinks like lassi.
The amazing part of my tour to Lohari Gate was that I saw groups
and groups of people visiting the place to enjoy the food and witness the relics
of history. Neevin Masjid, Chowk Bukhari, Chowk Jhanda, metal workers market
and the famous Lal Haveli Square are a must see there. A Haveli has been
adopted by the National College of Arts as Conservation Bethak. Regular classes
of conservation and restoration techniques are held there. Amidst the narrow
streets and shops there is Hindu temple as well, though it is not a functional
one, but it is well intact. Unfortunately it is not a tourist site as it is
locked like most of our mosques, but I wish it is developed as a tourist site.
Lohari Gate is the best example of the living cultural and
heritage. I hope it does not get into the shackles of commercialization like
many other parts of the Walled City, although much has been take over by
commercialization now. I suggest a plan to be devised for saving the roots of
the heritage.
(The writer is a media professional and can be reached at
taniaq29@gmail.com)
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