VIVACITY INSIDE MASTI GATE

The historic gates of Lahore are the precious inheritance of Lahoris. Though most of the gates have lost their existence with the passage of time and the transitions the city went through but still they are alive to witness the glory and magnificence of the bygone empires. The structure might not be existing now, but the grandeur of the monuments and culture still lives inside the deceased structures of the gates.

Now come to the Masti Gate, one of the thirteen gates of the walled city and this gate too has various traditions about the origin of its name. One says that it is named after a royal guard Masti Baloch who performed his duties with great dedication and commitment. He guarded the gate till his last breath and the gate got connected with his name. According to another, which is more believable, its original name was Masiti Gate (Masit is for a Mosque in Punjabi) which was changed to Masti Gate. The claim is affirmed as a few yards from the gate stands the majestic “Begum Shahi Mosque” which is the oldest Mosque of the Mughal era. The Mosque was built in1611-1614 by the Emperor Jahangir for his mother Mariam Zamani who was the Hindu wife of Mughal Emperor Akbar (Rajkumari Heer Kunwar of Amber, also known as 'Maharani Jodha Bai' in popular culture).  

The Masti Gate was destroyed during British period due to its deteriorated conditions and a comparatively small doorway was built. But now there exists neither the gate nor the doorway. A steep path known as Masti Ghatti (slope) goes down to link it with the main road.

Outside the gate we see the vehicles tyre and alloy rims market. The gate is no more there but according to some historians and architects the foundations are traceable inside this market. This market to some extent is also considered an encroachment and has affected the location of the Mariam Zamani Mosque.  Just opposite the Masti Gate and the thick rim market is the grand entrance to the Lahore Fort “Akbari Gate”. This gate was once the main entrance to the Lahore Fort and was built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar.

As we move a little further inside the gate there is the biggest shoe market named Moti Bazaar. This bazaar is a whole sale and a retail market of all types of shoes. It can be claimed as the biggest shoe market in Pakistan.

An interesting thing near the Moti Bazaar is the residential area of the blinds. This is known as the “Aniya di Katri” (Punjabi language). There are more than ten blind families living inside this Katri till now and it is an old settlement. A very narrow path leads you to this katri. Probably you will have to ask someone there if you wish to visit it. Don’t think that the residents of this katri are less hospitable; despite their disability they will host you at their best.

Another remarkable feature inside this gate is the Chunna Mandi Haveli.  Also known as the Havelis of Jamaadar Khushaal Singh and Dhiyan Singh, these Havelis are a significant group of historic buildings in the Walled City. It currently houses the Government Fatima Jinnah College for Women. The building, with its spacious courtyard and Sikh imagery is one of the largest Havelis inside the Walled City of Lahore. From its sprawling courtyards to its royal baths and from its arched hallways to its zenana gardens, the building is breathtakingly beautiful. But, perhaps what is far more important is that the haveli is as alive today as it was in its days of glory. Instead of being kept under lock and key it is being utilized as a college and every corner has been put to constructive use.

Near Chunna Mandi is the Janam Asthan (birth place) of Guru Arjun Raam Das.  He was the fourth of the Ten Gurus of Sikhism and was given the title of Sikh Guru on 30 August 1574. He was Guru for seven years. Ram Das was born in Chunna Mandi, Walled City Lahore on 24 September 1534.

Inside the gate is also the temple converted into a residential area now. It was originally the Mai ka Mandir. A main trail from the Begum Shahi Masjid leads to Chowk Surjan Singh from where you can go towards Rang Mehal Chowk and further to Sonehri Masjid and Wazir Khan Masjid. This is an interesting walk.

Just like Delhi, Lohari, Taxali and Bhatti, the gate is also renowned for its best quality heavy food. At every nook and corner we will find a tea stall and local foods which are no doubt appetizing.  Local drinks like lassi, green tea, kashmiri tea, pathoora, special types of naan and roti are famous food items. There are also functional Akharas (wrestling arena) inside this gate. This is a local wrestling arena which is now hardly seen inside the Walled City. Once these were functional in every gate but now it’s considered a vanishing sport.

Life inside the Walled City and this gate is extraordinarily appealing. If one observes bit deeply, it’s entirely contradictory to that of the modern Lahore. The community is convivial, welcoming, very cooperating and hospitable, if you are passing by a residential area you will surely be offered by a cup of tea or Lassi (a local drink). Even though, atrocious circle of poverty has surrounded them callously but still they are rich at hearts and would offer you whatever they can, that’s the true Lahori culture. The entire Mohalla, Katri or a Koocha is like a family, and everyone is close to each other.  The residents do face issues because of the markets and commercial areas, but they have developed love for their land and place. This is a must visit trail and especially if you visit the awe stunning monuments inside this gate it will be a memorable trip.

(The writer is a media professional and can be reached at taniaq29@gmail.com)