My love for Lahore has always driven me to unknown routes in search of more
and more of ancient remains. Almost fifteen years ago, I visited Delhi Gate
Lahore for the first time with my brother, who then had started architectural
photography as a hobby. I was awe stunned at the grandness of the gate at first
glance and thought as if I am into another city, and yes I was. It was then
when I wrote my first feature in a newspaper on walled city. That was the
inspiration I took from my first trip to Delhi Gate.
You can reach Delhi gate via Railway station Lahore, crossing the old Do
Moria Bridge (a bridge with two tunnels like openings) and taking a left turn,
now the signages are there for fortunate tourists. The majestic gate is the
welcome sign to the city of wonders, the walled city which has an aura found
nowhere in the world. This is my remark after visiting more than ten heritage
sites of the world.
This gate is one of the thirteen gates of Lahore. The gates around the city
of Lahore were built by the third Mughal Emperor Akbar in mid 1600s. These
thirteen gates provided access to the city of Lahore which was once enclosed
within a thirty feet high fortified wall, built by the same Mughal emperor. The
wall is no more today, but still I can visualize the grandeur and you too can
feel it, only if you visit the Old City.
Delhi Gate, situated on the east of Walled City was named so because it faces
towards Delhi, which was the capital of the Mughal Empire. During the Mughal
era, and even some time later, this gate remained the main entrance to the city
of Lahore. The royal entourages and the common people used this gate which
leads into the city. All the gates of the Walled City of Lahore were demolished
during the British era. A circular road and circular garden, which still exist
today, was built after the grand demolition. Other facts affirm that the bricks
of the wall were used in constructing the Railway Station of Lahore by Mian
Sultan a contractor of British era. Somehow, only the gates were reconstructed
in early 1900’s by the British.
Like many other monuments and buildings inside the walled city Delhi Gate
witnessed seasons of harmony, serenity and commotion. Once it enjoyed the
status of the reception gate to the Royal City with the soldiers and guards
welcoming people, later in the Sikh British rule it functioned as the court of
a magistrate, jails, and local police station.
As per history books the gate had wooden doors similar to the ones fixed
in Lohari Gate. The doors were probably destroyed during the independence
riots. During the Mughal era, the doors in these gates were closed after sunset
when the city would go to sleep, thus disallowing access into the city. After partition
a girl’s school was housed inside the gate building which is still there. The
recent Governments have tried to relocate the school but all efforts failed.
The locals of the area also use the upper storey of the gate for marriages and
religious ceremonies. I wish the gate was a museum or a cultural center!
The building of the gate is double storey and almost ten to twelve rooms
are serving as class rooms. The most interesting part of the building is the
staircase leading to the roof top of the gate. The stair cases in most of the
huge mansions and monuments were made at 90 degree angle in order to protect
the building from sudden attacks. While going up the stairs, one looses the
momentum and speed to climb. This shows the cleverness and techniques of
defense in those days. Going to the upper storey one can see the roof of the Royal
Bath “Shahi Hammam” on the right side. The roof of the gate is even, which
gives a marvelous view of the old city and Delhi Gate’s vibrant bazaar.
In history books we find that once the Wazir Khan Mosque could be seen from the
roof top of the gate. Next to the gate was once the “Sarai” (guest house) of
Wazir Khan which was demolished during a flood that struck the city during the
Sikh era. After which the streets were made and the locals started settling
there.
The ground floor of the gate which is the entrance into the Delhi Gate
bazaar has six rooms which are now converted into tourism offices and crafts
center. These rooms were used by the chobdars in Mughal era, magistrate and
police in later eras. For some time after 1947, the rooms served as dispensary
and health centers for the local community.
Outside Delhi Gate we see many tea, spices and grains shops, these are
actually the part of Akbari Mandi, the Spice Market. Akbari Mandi was named after Mughal emperor Akbar.
This is a nice tourist spot; the gate is illuminated at night for the
tourists and tourists Tongas are found there conducting guided tours. It’s a
must visit place. Local vendors selling interesting traditional items like
bangles, shoes, toys and cloth are also located there. One best stall is the
local enticing food “Ladoo Peethi Walay”. They seller opens the shop at sunset
and remains there for a few hours only. I guess these are the best in the town.
You will find the Afghani Pulao as well near Delhi Gate. This is available now
because of the Afghans settlement in old Lahore.
This is our culture and unfortunately many of us are unaware of it. Trust
me it’s a must visit site!
(The writer is a
media professional and can be reached at taniaq29@gmail.com)
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